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best korea led bars

Posted by renesis at 18:36 | permalink | 0 comments

which is why resistors are fail
cant even gaurantee a brightness
it might as well be 1920s theater lighting
use themocouple + tc amp ic if you need to go higher

Posted by renesis at 18:27 | permalink | 0 comments

well, until your drive fet blows out
so anyway, back to your iriginal statement
01:19 < monkeyisl> see all bars in the world.
thats wrong, you werent talking about your bars you were saying all the bars
and you prob didnt even work out the thermal math on your resistors so those prob blow up on a hot day too
i doubt it
? = resistors black in a year
summertime is a bitch!
3 years?
its leds and resistors that shit should last 20 years
20 years is terrible?

Posted by renesis at 18:22 | permalink | 0 comments

when the LEDs are on, Vds should be almost 0V
20A * .005 is like .1V
your shit uses resistive current limiting?
its the least efficient
heh, theres tons of companies in california that manufacture switching source LEDs
so i dunno what youre talking about
if we make it at all, china prob has at least 3 factories pumping them out
you use cv to drive a current source
its better
intelligent customers will know

Posted by renesis at 18:17 | permalink | 0 comments

google says you can dissipate 40W
continuous, 50C ambient,
what fan
with normal good heatsink
typical outdoor
30V at 20A is 600W
40W/600W is?
you can have a maximum of 6% on time with this fet, dissipating 40W
lets call it 20W because it will maybe average out to this much
at this point im not even thinking, other than with pictures of geometry inside my brain
im prob wrong, so at 20W because it will be dropping less voltage as it passes more current, you have a max of 10% slew time, on time
if your waveform looks like it is taking the fet more than 12% of the time to drop all the voltage, from 30V to 0V
i predict you will have major thermal problems

Posted by renesis at 18:12 | permalink | 0 comments

if they fet is getting hot, the LEDs arent
which means less light than intended
that would move the heat to your supply and hookup wire
junction to case + case to sink is 1C/W
lets say you start at 50C
this is for outdoor install right?
so 50C
so you have 125W od dissipation in this part, max
with the best heatsink ever
lets say you have a real heatsink
youre prob to cheapo for fans
so well call it 3C/watt
haha @ low profile
you have a long way to go before you become any sort of threat to california engineering
1" isnt so bad
anyway, lets call it 2C per watt
so up to 3C/watt

Posted by renesis at 18:07 | permalink | 0 comments

$5 says it dies at 150C
you prob got something cheap too
which has mad input capacitance
which is prob why shit is getting hot
and the LEDs arent as bright as theyre supposed to be
fig 10 has a nice plot of it
and thats not what i mean
its more about slew rates and duty cycles
wqhat chinkshit
a fet?
100% duty is easy it doesnt switch
twy 90%

Posted by renesis at 18:02 | permalink | 0 comments

you need to prototype this and test the temperature
youre going to make some LEDs dimmer if it gets to hot?
thats pretty fail
20m of bright then your shit craps out, people will think its broken
this is all to pwm an LED?
youre clients should buy buck pucks
free wheeling
haha @ pwming 600W with one switch
which adds to 1800
you have yet to tell me a max temperatute to sense

Posted by renesis at 17:57 | permalink | 0 comments

how did you not know before selling it?
anyway, im still waiting for you to say how much temp
degrees c monkey
i dont care, youre getting trolled, just tell me degrees c or im leaving to do laundry
i guess you better calculate the power dissipation and look at Rth specs and decide
if youre not sure, and it has a tab, you should heatsink it
how much range does this temperature sensor need
cold to hot
how much
how much does cost matter
how accurate do you need to be
you need to give me numbers
is this for sensing your fet

Posted by renesis at 17:52 | permalink | 0 comments

temp sense what
what is your application, what is your temp range
what is the whole first stage for
is that a latching circuit?
i suck at those
to what
what is the purpose of the circuit on the left
anf if your electronics have thermal problems you need to learn basics
tho it prob means you have the ROI thing figured out...
you need to tell me how high your temps needs to go
how is it not your electronics
did you sell it?
if you sold it, its all yours
it was your system
sounds like you didnt integrate previous chinkset well, which means your testing is weak

Posted by renesis at 17:46 | permalink | 0 comments

rab: nite!
wtf is that circuit monkeyisl
damn i think you just tricked me...

Posted by renesis at 17:41 | permalink | 0 comments

acrylic = low curring speed, high feed rate
else it foams
i need to do laundry

Posted by renesis at 10:25 | permalink | 0 comments

i miss my z
use coolant
so the dust doesnt float
youll need enough to push the swarf out of the way or else itll dull your cutter faster
whipping up the fiberglash shake
that wont make much diff after a few minutes of machining
and it was mostly a solution to your carcinogenic dust problem
SD is weird
right on the border so its a party town, but its got mil bases, so its pretty conservative for california

Posted by renesis at 10:09 | permalink | 0 comments

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