fucking crybaby just lift one side of the diode and put 100R
because you said you were seeing sawtooths
wtf cant, lies
so its fine now
been looking at it
see i can explain what theyre doing tho, =)

Capacitive loads which are applied directly to the output of
the amplifier reduce the loop stability margin. Values of 50
pF can be accomodated using the worst-case non-inverting
unity gain connection. Large closed loop gains or resistive
isolation should be used if larger load capacitance must be
driven by the amplifier.
LM158/LM258/LM358/LM2904
...
capacitor thru a diode is
omg
2M?
put like 100R in series with D1 and see if it still works
why
so
change it?

hi

youre doing this off a regulator? right?
yes
because it prob doesnt work at 3v if youre doing this at 3.3v
yeah i know and 2v is prob max you get from that amp with that rail
you have alot of those led?
test a few with like 5mA thru them make sure theyre all like ~1.8v
youre prob fine
heh, maybe not if it gets really cold

yeah i dunno why timecop is doing it like that instead of just using a comparator with open collector
like itd prob be half the parts, shrug
im half asleep but i dont think thats a big problem
anyway what did the voltage at pin 7 get to?

whats your supply volts and whats pin 7
and whats it low
and your led is 1.8v
do you get the joke yet
not if thats its max voltage
because its against the rail

anyway, you should prob use a comparator with open collector
i dont think this thing has the output swing to do this
dude
comparator is like a gimpy opamp
you can get them just as generic
cant remember generic comparator part
i dunno depends
id test output swing at 3.3v before i did anything with it
the output
7

what
put 10R in series with D1
change R4 to 10K
wtf Av=100 to amp like 1v into 2V
well, -1v into +2V

haha tricky, wtf
they name the subcircuit LM358/NS
you puts the gain
did it help?

looking for spice model
explain your pwm input
weekends are neat
k
where is that
yeh
LM358 model fail

1K is prob ok
put like 10R ro 100R in series with the diode
right now, when the capacitor is drained, youre running the amp against its short circuit protection for a sec
kinda
yeah but when the opamp exceeds the voltage of C1 + D1, it goes from being loaded by R3 and R4 to being dead shorted to ground
thru the diode and cap

4mA
find the vf im looking at the 358 datasheet
get the rail to rail amp
wtf youre saving them?
well im looking but if its not like 1v from the rail, maybe not
here do this fuck the datasheet
well, you should check if first amp is oscillating
because its capacitively loaded thru a dead short (diode)
and it has fucked up high gain its basically doing comparator shit
then check the input, because youre running 1K input impedance to get your way high gain
and its a virtual ground
so if the amp is oscillating your diode or whatever ir sensor, whatever input is oscillating too
so now their is an oscillation in your oscillation
dawg

is that rail to rail shit?
i know
thats why i think maybe it sucks for this
like maybe it can swing past 2V or something
what color is it
or whats the Vf
so like what 1.6V maybe?
.4/100 is what

use schottky for D1
a zener prob wont turn on
what color led?
or the Vf if you know it is better
and gain of 100 in one stage prob isnt great

how much voltage are you getting across C1?
and whats V+
see id be like, fuck follower, use U1.2 as a comparator

hehe the little mlcc, i thought it was a solder bridge and you were talking about the blue diode in the background
SORRY OK
er blue capacitor
whatever!
need to see the circuit
is the cap directly in parallel with the diode?
oh, weird

what cap
the cap doesnt work unless you connect it to the circuit timecop
you are bad at analog
oooh
i see it now i thought that was a solder blob
then thats what the diode is for
its like camoflaged on that FR4

if you find a schematic with a diode/resistor/cap on the output before the led and its resistor, you can set fadeout time for your led

thats your IR detector?
does it detect?
hey put a .1uF on your supply pin
dont be chinese

rework wire
tell him to get some
everything fits on a breadboard

if he had just left justified them and placed them next to the leds without a frame it would have been pretty obvious
well
more obvious
nice @ wire ziptie

wow
hack is double plus
It looks less pretty, but I can not immediately think of something better:
haha modest fucker that shit looks erotic
fuckem they will learn
and yeah because alot of that shit is just held in panels by its leads
hahahahaha
yeah
its kinda a shitty design
not the UI but the labels

switch pot is prob a BOM/leadtime fuck
neat
what do you mean
heh was the whole thing like, on a PCB glued to a button?
because that would kinda rawk
i think panasonic makes them
theyre prob $2
hahahaha
thats so exactly what i imagined
its cheap and you could do alot
oh
like leds as buttons
cant you do capacitive sense with them or something?
maybe it was Vf vs ambient light
I do not think I'm the only one, who design and build a circuit fairly smoothly, but in whom the sweat drops on the forehead as the housing richly pearly their turn.
nice

@ 0.15?
the 10p ones are cheaper
yeah
i cant think of anything else
you could do a pot and a button i guess
VCC GND SW POT
or 3 buttons
because yeah those 6 pin cables and headers are harder to get
oh neat
10p stuff isnt cheaper from source?
a switch pot would be pretty neat

for what you sell most of your stuff for its kinda too much
you could use the lib and just put a pin header there instead
that way you have room
meh, i decided i wanted to do a power opto triac and a little display module besides my ad597 breakout
but thats bumped down in priority because i got into CNC project class
so I can do whatever I want on the haas minimill at school
so im going to do a backplate for the amp i been lagging on all summer
well all year
neat
that prob better for power
i can think of anything to do with an extra 4 pins
the 10 pin shrouded headers are pretty cheap
maybe you can make a module with RGB and butans or something
of course not
maybe maybe $.15 cheap
-1xmaybe

timecop: ?
haha
wow opamps
you are getting balls and shit
macegr: i think so
but i always just make that shit
hmm i dont think it was in the pin headers lib
im pretty sure its in a manufacturer lib
3m
con-3m.lbr
they dont have 2x3
they have 2x5
compared to the breakaway ones, yeah

oh
i missed it
macegr: busy, workworkwork
i have it on now
didnt see
=\
its ok i knew it was gonna happen when i opened it
hey thats pretty neat
woah
woah
blue mushroom clouds ftw

that music is kinda annoying

o
mfkr thats why

PROVE YOU ARE AMERICAN OR WE CUT YOU OFF
so yeah i dont have subsidized anthem anymore because im not an american citizen
(born in los angeles lived here forever)
BUT I HAS AN ABSTRACT OF MY BIRTH CERTIFICATE

and fed them talking points
and said they should expect a lobbyist to call them at work
and they had to register to sign some petition
so the cool thing about this
most states its not totally illegal
but it happened in california, and one of our billions of laws specifically prohibits that
so yeah maybe they get fucked
i had free bluecross anthem
but i fucked it up because they sent me a letter like
HEY ARE YOU A LEGAL CITIZEN PROVE IT OR BENEFITS GONE
and like a dumbass, ILL DO THAT LATER and i forgot because busy or dumb or whatever
well and mostly WTF PROVE IT HI HERE ALL MY LIFE HAVE DRIVERS LICENSE AND SSN
same stuff
anthem, blue cross, blue shield
like one is their PPO and i think the others are HMO
longcat: ?
who is they
it wasnt up to them
i was getting state subsidized health care
medi-cal was paying for my anthem/bluecross
and because the state budget crisis, they had to cut costs so they decided to send out tons of letters like

hi
tired
i fucked up i get no health care til december
no like, now
not in two years
hey so the health care company i was prob going to pick
because really its my only other option besides death by kaiser
they basically ordered their employees to go to townhalls and spam senator/representative emails

heh

kevtris: dunno looks the same