lordpil's blog


cozality: no
i wont eat tongue either
no liver
hell i trim my meat like a bitch, anything remotely looks like fat, tendon, gristle, gone
rinse the fat out of my ground meat

Posted by renesis at 18:05 | permalink | 0 comments


im killing the netwires!

Posted by renesis at 17:32 | permalink | 0 comments


pull the reset low?
jmp $0
rjmp reset

Posted by renesis at 16:01 | permalink | 0 comments


okay that sounds not so bad
i need garlic bread
yeah me too thats why i got the super safe stuff

Posted by renesis at 15:34 | permalink | 0 comments


rab: yeh, ill let you know if my parts melt
im pretty sure thats why they sell it as wire flux, like for pins
is water bad for chips?
cant imagine electrolytics like it
Post-solder residues from Superior Supersafe No. 30 are self-neutralizing at soldering temperatures, owing to the unique flux
chemistry
im hoping they have chemistry ninja

Posted by renesis at 15:29 | permalink | 0 comments


normal flux ive used is usually fucked up sticky
rab: lemme find manufacturer link
Wire Tinning: Fluxes
Superior Supersafe No. 30
http://www.superiorflux.com/pdf/spec/No.30.pdf
first application says PCB tho
heh, stained glass?
yeah i just never done it, seems weird to flux glass

Posted by renesis at 15:24 | permalink | 0 comments


i find link, its cheap at mcmaster
http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.aspx?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=3285&term=Soldering%2bFlux&sesnextrep=887383018054938&ScreenWidth=1280&McMMainWidth=1073
Organic Acid Water-Soluble Flux
Its high activity makes for strong and safe cleaning action, and the residue is water soluble. Designed for electronic and aerospace applications, this liquid acid flux works well on difficult-to-solder metal surfaces.
comes in pint bottle for $14
ive used like nothing
i got a standard point dispenser for liquid rosin flux, right above
needle too big
if my parts melt i will let you know
but yeah the material safety datasheet reads like it aint shit
it dries out my hands a bit when i get it on me, but not as bad as like acetone does
but it washes off really quick

Posted by renesis at 15:19 | permalink | 0 comments


rab: flux, tinned solder tip
water based, so no mess
its not thick except where i made it thick on the traces
and the 12V input
its neat, solder kinda draws onto the copper like a felt marker
rab: mostly cuz i got carried away
its not thick tho, i can see the texture in the copper over the fiberglass still
water based
sizzles!
no clean up
yeh
it has resistance till it completely dries
i was going nuts but then i watched the resistance go up from dozens of K to M to open in less than a minute
and like i had soaked the board in this stuff
sec
Superior Flux and Mfg. Co.

Posted by renesis at 15:14 | permalink | 0 comments


no the pulldown
i said label everything, i mean like R1 C1 D1 etc
yeah the lower one

Posted by renesis at 15:02 | permalink | 0 comments


39?
ph i see the other 360
label the connectors
use the text tool
also wtf you should have made the traces on the triac side of the opto like 2x as big
anyway, the pulldown on the triac gate
in case of surge current, you want the board to be able to handle a pulse of high current
its not
anyway, the pulldown on the triac gate, make it bigger
try that 6K thing
no big
wtf do you think were doing?
no i said the trace width isnt

Posted by renesis at 14:57 | permalink | 0 comments


black what?
other interrupts?
silly c coders
increase the pulldown on your optotriac
its even with the gate current limiting resistor
what?
show the circuit and tell me the values
no
the opto output circuit
and change all your fonts to vector fonts
its in the options

Posted by renesis at 14:52 | permalink | 0 comments


it maybe cant even do that much
measure its output
well that would suck
why do you need a touch sensor?
yeah since the circuit is prob gonna blow up and kill anything touching it
measure the qt output pin when its on
it should be around 0v
yes

Posted by renesis at 14:30 | permalink | 0 comments


hey
superware: hey
did you put the cap in where GPF said?
what is that little blue cap?
what is the little cap on the QT110
the one in the test socket
does this work when you pull the buffer to 0V?
like, manually
okay
so you pull it low and it works?
its your touch sensor
its prob not doing anything wrong
its maybe not picking up all the touches or something
its maybe in some mode where it resets
then it cant sink the current
and their datasheet lies

Posted by renesis at 14:25 | permalink | 0 comments


cmon you cant do a $10 design by yourself?
godzilla and he-man tag teamin it could design that
do you actually have money?
sadness
are you in a strange country with no Digi-Key access?
oh cmon isreal can get parts
then order enough for 20
and dont fuck up

Posted by renesis at 14:19 | permalink | 0 comments


timecop: like 1983
its an analog with digital module
the digital section is a board as big as the scope, covered in dips
superware: im about to do the whole circuit for you
eheheheheh
no only paypal
greycz tried to pay in dongs, and got all emo when i wouldnt accept
pacific rim of fire
$40, with $10 BOM
eagle i guess
its def within diptrace free limit
so you get to pay for me learning in that case

Posted by renesis at 14:14 | permalink | 0 comments


you could even do it with a to92 vreg
prob potted underneath
heh, my tek's DSO board is like that in DIP
its like dip traffic jam, bumper to bumper

Posted by renesis at 14:06 | permalink | 0 comments


okay
wanna know why this is lame?
so the dip is .3" across
so that whole board is what like 1.4" x 1.2" or something?
could totally fit one of those little transformer and everything else in the same amount of space
yeah
test33: sot23 reg and smt electrolytic and bridge, you could do the WHOLE psu under the transformer
and its like a 1x1" transformer
also the ZC circuit
yeah those are so neat

Posted by renesis at 14:01 | permalink | 0 comments


yeah 2nd is wed i think
yeah

Posted by renesis at 13:42 | permalink | 0 comments


omg if i give you pics you guys will be stalkin on her
omg!
get your own english teachers!
mineral oil prob be better
timecop: prob monday

Posted by renesis at 13:36 | permalink | 0 comments


neat i am having email coresspondense with my geeky cute english teacher
even tho i am done with er class and hopefully english forever
=D

Posted by renesis at 13:30 | permalink | 0 comments


make a schematic of the whole circuit
if you have to draw it in paint, do it
leave enough room to put in voltage and current measurements you take
label everything
no
the board should be the very last thing

Posted by renesis at 13:25 | permalink | 0 comments


enough to burn the base
this is on a breadboard, no?
i dunno, 2-200W?
i wonder if it worked
where is superware

Posted by renesis at 13:16 | permalink | 0 comments


remember the transistor Vbe drops .6V or so
do you have one of those?
okay
fuckit do it
next youre gonna try darlington driver because i know you have more than one npn
okay now what
haha
yeah someone was asking me if just 8V could kill a transistor
i guess that i could do it with 2v
*guessed

Posted by renesis at 13:11 | permalink | 0 comments


80
its going slow, i dunno
you zener can take 200mA, its tested at 50mA, stop giving it like 13mA, your opto can take 60mA, it turns on at 5mA, stop trying to give it like 7mA
your qt touch thing says it can drive 5mA, do the math and make it do 1mA
like between 1-3mA

Posted by renesis at 13:06 | permalink | 0 comments


540 is way too much
do you have a resistor on the other side of the led too?
well its maybe not turning on fast enough
use a smaller base resistor
8.2K wtf
try more like 1K or 2K
wtf.2K
1.2K
5-.7/6200
what is that?
yeah see how he has 12V and 2K and an arrow says 'Small Current'?
well you have 5V
so with that 2K, less current
so with 6.2K you aproach imaginary amounts of current

Posted by renesis at 13:01 | permalink | 0 comments


if your power supply ainr right whole whole project is shit
end.
so obviously its that
obviously touch sensor is not made to drive LED
and possibly your buffer circuit wasnt working
i dont get paid for helping superware wtf
then your transistor buffer is no good
you need to adjust it

Posted by renesis at 12:56 | permalink | 0 comments


test33: they will end you
unless its like an enco plate
then they might just injure you critically
superware: yes, real power supply, real ZC detection, real optotriac
no more of this 'i want to save money' bullshit
you saved no one money
you wasted like 20 hours of work
lets say you call youre time worth $1/hr
thats $20
thats like 4 of those power supplies i told you to build $10 ago
im just kinda saying what i personally know
like, i have pieces of paper saying i know shit
i should be worth at least double digits per hour =(

Posted by renesis at 12:51 | permalink | 0 comments


welded iron with ground tops on shimstock for leveling
angle orin if you cant get castings
er, iron
concrete will shift with humidity changes
and eventially degrade
yeah prob for inspection
those are like machinists babies
if you fuckup their inspection plate, THEY WILL CUT YOU
CUT YOU FUREAL, DOUBLE PLUS
paper?
wtf?
oh
yeah but it makes a bad machine table
like, in a bridge or something, if it moves 1" in 5 years, it dont matter so much

Posted by renesis at 12:46 | permalink | 0 comments


urban myth

Posted by renesis at 12:33 | permalink | 0 comments


the source is polluted
honest coverage of bullshit is still bullshit

Posted by renesis at 11:40 | permalink | 0 comments


MOTHERUFUCK THIS COLD SHIT
okay so if i put the heater in the bathroom for when i get out of warm shower, i will go out into bedroom and freeze and die
wtf wtf wtf

Posted by renesis at 11:29 | permalink | 0 comments


like, small ones
i even have something around 3/8"
but yeah if i could takes the corners and edges off, keep decent surface tolerance (.005 or so)
and get rid of cut marks, thatd be neat
like, if i could get surface flatness thats be so awesome
i figure a few days with the finer/finest grits
plus its be neat to make assemblies, then like take all edges off
then assemble, all rounded bubble style

Posted by renesis at 10:26 | permalink | 0 comments


but like some tupperware prob be okay
boro isnt so bad
boro doesnt shatter it breaks into chunks
even small pieces arent so bad
yeah prob make replacments
steppers + big rollers is prob a good idea
be cool to make a stepper thing that has 24/7 run cycle
yeah thats good idea tho
yeah but they prob spin faster
i figure with stepper, prob better to use bigger rollers for gearing down motor speed
geared down no matter what
unless youre using giant rollers
yeah i dont want the motor to have to go so fast
want it closer to unity
maybe i just use a DC motor and rollers, tho

Posted by renesis at 10:21 | permalink | 0 comments


use big rollers
just cuz i prob have more steppers than motors that will be happy with that
yeah but i can prob make one for stuff i have
also if i can make it for the same price, ill make it
just for the project
its like a weekend of machining and pcb
gettinf fancy
but i mean, i have steppers somewhere (printers w00t)
so i just need rollers and a cylinder with caps (omg coffe can)
make a better top or use tupper with lid or who knows
the frame i can use 6061
dude 6061 is so cheap from mcmaster!
cmon if the do it with plastic!
what its like .25" thick plastic?
oh
so like 1/8"
yes but not much
better seams
yeh
heh, glass

Posted by renesis at 10:16 | permalink | 0 comments


well like quick shit, where i wanna keep dimensions, i can just use sand paper
emery boards
you never really want hard edges or corners on machined parts
weak spots!
deburring tools kinda suck
knives are better usually for that kind of deburring, but its usually easier just to take down the edge with a few passes of grit
yeah
but like, it maybe makes the machined Al towards mirror like
if i use fine grit and it takes out the cutting marks, itd be hella flat, no angular faces
i can get it reflective, somewhat, but its broken up by the cutting marks (you cant even really feel them, just see them)
i can prob make one cheap, tho
buy tumbler dirt
make something on a motor
yeah that sounds good
i can stick a stepper on it

Posted by renesis at 10:11 | permalink | 0 comments


totally smooth, huh?
be neat way to finish parts
yeah, brished look, takes down all the hard corners
like, itd be for a specific finish, not general use
yeah
but like if threw some machines Al in there
maybe just a day or a few
well i just wanna take of edges and cutting marks
cut marks are prob sub .001"
but theyre sharp faces so you can still see them
yeah
well yeah you take thenm out before that unless thats what you want
yeah, and prob the cutting marks in the meantime
if it does it even enough its be awesome
instant deburring
throw some dish soap in to get the machining oils off
thats a ton of space, etc
those things are nasty lookin
yeah those are the ones ive mean
they always surrounded by mad dust in any shop ive seen them in

Posted by renesis at 10:06 | permalink | 0 comments


you can buy $3 shit and get 30 feedback for $100
i have 51, split between buys and sells
really no one gives a shit until youre over 100, if youre selling
yeh
thats easy business to buy and resell those
like, sucks cuz its lame cards, but people make $$$ doing that
hey whats a rock tumbler?
like whats the drum made from?
that it wont that wear out in like a few years??
so anything
yeah but its just a drum?
theres no paddles or ridges to turn the grit
?
haha
good idea

Posted by renesis at 10:01 | permalink | 0 comments


remind me again in 155 hours
you need mode ebay points
no i dont want, i want a minimag
cuz you have zero ebay points
work on that, buy stuff
fine whatever you have acct, use it to buy stuff
dont piss people off
get more pts
get like maybe 5 pts and maybe someone will buy something, maybe

Posted by renesis at 09:53 | permalink | 0 comments


wow its awesome when you count up your money and everything is all good
THEN you find another $80 in pants pocket from other day
=(
you have a minimag?
i want a minimag
http://www.warpaintballstyle.com/minimag.html
tiny, blow-forward, awesome. oldskool.
you have something else by JT
6 days, cmon

Posted by renesis at 09:48 | permalink | 0 comments


i mean, MAYBE i just fucked it up and saw a confirmation page and never hit submit
but wtf i filled out all my shipping and credit info and doubled checked everything, im not gonna hit BUY at the end?
i was angry =(
kinda my fault for ordering the soic in tubes instead of tape
cuz i never got soic in tubes!
naw, first week of january prob
oh, thats right
my sparkfun order was two day fedex
was only $2 more than 'whever the fuck we feel like it' fedex
ha whats a few dead bodies for yultide convienience!
merry xmas w00t!

Posted by renesis at 09:32 | permalink | 0 comments


hahaha
'its says 250V 105'
hahaha!
hahahahahahaha!
avr like WTF!?!?
wow, he prob got a vishay orange drop
or equiv
nice xtal cap!
omg
i almost laughed into my bong and blew bongwater at my tek and stk500 and dragon!
#electronics = bad for gear!
hahaha
yeah they never made mistake with me like that
shitty
i swear i hit submit on that one order
when i went to check why it hadnt confirmed, the tube packaged switcherd i wanted were non stocked
and it was like 'how many boxes do you want your order in?'
im like WTF I HIT BUY BITCHES
i think at some point while i was finalizing my order they got bought out
so like when i hit submit it kinda ignored me cuz order was reset

Posted by renesis at 09:27 | permalink | 0 comments


it should be called 'functional use of protection diode in noise coupling from mains application'
you know, for a random number generator seed, or something
they dont go there tho, they know thats nuts
haha
dude theyll get fucked up hot and still program
its pretty nuts
haha
put the mains signal on its clock and VCC
1uF cap
then you dont need ZC
cpu clk is the ZC
the have a logic clk input
theyll run at really low speeds
i saved one with bad fuse
random R and C i grabbed, lowest ISP speed
but like it worked?
heheheh
HAHAHAHA!
pics?
or did he descrive it

Posted by renesis at 09:22 | permalink | 0 comments


rab: http://rocky.digikey.com/WebLib/Pulse/Web%20photos/BV030-7221.0,%20BV030-7233.0,%20BV030-7234.0.jpg
neat, huh?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=567-1025-5-ND
i dont think they are shielded, but like for superware stuff its prob more than fine
compared to coupling mains noise direct into the circuit
cheap too!
yeh
they come in more voltages
yeah
theyre low, under 1"
yeah its a better solution
that, cap, 7805, optotriac, power triac, ac-in optonpn for ZC detection
like, maybe not even $4
the optos and transformer are like $3.50
yeah cuz low voltage
and rectified
exactly
off mains its like, WTF ATMEL!?
like i love that company, but i want to slap them for that app note

Posted by renesis at 09:17 | permalink | 0 comments


he just needs more current for his zener supply
bigger cap
yeah he maybe needs more decoupling after the zener
i think that was important in his layout
yeah fureal
transformers and optoisolators are your friends
rab: dude i found him these awesome little blue plastic case transformers
on digikey for $2, like 1" cubes, .5VA or something
i dunno!!
that was microh4xo tho
yo guys
i gotta go get thai foods
okay bye
hmm
gimme a minute
theyre nice, small, PCB mount, for one
copper is expensive, but useful
be nice, he doesnt argue so much
eheheheh
powering a heating coil or something

Posted by renesis at 09:12 | permalink | 0 comments


you really need to make a schema for the psu
okay well weve safetly concluded that changing the resistor aint gonna do shit really
yeah i showed him awesome $2 transformer
like, little blue 1" cube of coils
whole .5VA worth or something
you were an op the other day
superware: yeah
because R is tiny value compared to cap
which is good it means youre saving power how you wanted
not really
R1 was 4K?
change the .33uF cap to to like 1uF
or .49uF or something
my god i wish you would just buy the transformer and a 7805
you already have the bridge

Posted by renesis at 09:07 | permalink | 0 comments


that doesnt help
what R1 are you using and what other resistors do you have?
do you have like a 240 or something?
do you have other caps?
you pasted your board i cant read that
where is the schema
okay youre doing a bridge, no?
yeah thats bad
okay so 2x 50Hz
so your .33uF cap is looking like a 4.8K resistor
i guess im assuming you put it before the bridge? after?

Posted by renesis at 09:02 | permalink | 0 comments


a 1W 5.1V zener is like 200mA max, (i=p/v), theyre using 1/4 power to get the numbers
superware: more current thru the zener wont hurt it, not until you put like more than 10x more current into it
i said use like 50-80mA to be sure
yeah you need to adjust those to increase current thru the zener
this is just a guess, but making the resistor a smaller value would probably increase the current thru the zener
also i dont remember your circuit totally but im not sure your zener was like 100% duty cycle
what are you using now and what do you have?

Posted by renesis at 08:57 | permalink | 0 comments


hahaha @ predates trucks
this is prob refered to as the ancient times in texas, no?
okay fairchild 1W zener 5.1V they using 50mA test current
okay but knee is 1mA
yeah like what they tested the zener at to get the numbers

Posted by renesis at 08:52 | permalink | 0 comments


yeah but when the opto is engaged it will prob steal like 10mA+
and its a 1w zener so dunno what kinda current it needs, min
yeah i know but that means sometimes the zener has only 7mA
which might be right around where it starts to shut down
its a 200mA zener
1w, 5v
uhohz

Posted by renesis at 08:47 | permalink | 0 comments


gpf_1: did you remember to clock in this time!?
superware: btw youve managed to get more help from people in this channel than prob anyone else in the last 6 months
so congradulations, or something
cuz you havent pissed anyone off yet
what is your zener current?
idle, no opto
not max like for real, what are you measuring
why?
increase your cap or reduce your resistor
on your mains RC

Posted by renesis at 08:42 | permalink | 0 comments


I transmitted the question.
thats what the website said to me after i wrote asking for samples
heh
my 12V->1.5V switcher at ~100mA is like '1.501V' on the fluke
\o/

Posted by renesis at 07:09 | permalink | 0 comments


heh tomfooler asked same thing in #cars at same time

Posted by renesis at 06:56 | permalink | 0 comments


yeh
i wanted to link but they got dynamic web coder ninjas
why you know of other source?
digikey has them listed as DC1111
its for B trigger
you might have to adj a switch so it shows B or A and B triggers

Posted by renesis at 06:42 | permalink | 0 comments


from company info: "By endeavoring to master the philosophy of the manufacturing process, we will open avenues to a wonderful future for all.
"
that means i can has samples, right?
i mean surely if you are the master of manufacturing process, you are eager to prove it, yes?
i CAN has samples.
ima ask them in the contact box, heh
like on purpose cuz they were stupid?
or on accident cuz you were stupid
calgar: the time knob?
you cant find the timing knob its prob the really big one on the right?
heheh
my outer and inner time base knobs pull out
(they put 10X on the fine/cal knob)
you pull it out and it exposes banana yellow base!
calgar: yes!
thats what controls the sweep time

Posted by renesis at 06:37 | permalink | 0 comments


MILF SCOPE
i dont know how to sample from these stanley people
they only have a contact text box
do i contact them like 'i can has blugrn elley dee sampilz?'
blackmoon: sample ninja, are you there?

Posted by renesis at 06:31 | permalink | 0 comments


blue-green 0603 is non stock at digikey
with price of $Call
not even in the list at mouser
stanley electric wtf
it cant be the lamp people
i think it is
jezus fuck instead of 0603/0805/1206, you search by compact, ultra compact, and other retarded shit

Posted by renesis at 06:24 | permalink | 0 comments


heh
routing with a micro is a weird challenge
like, i can remap most pins so routing is easy, except for timer outputs
next revolution in micros: full multiplexing of peripheral and port outputs
every output pin has a pin location value in a map table
i wonder if DX is okay

Posted by renesis at 06:17 | permalink | 0 comments


its usually adjustable
google for oscilloscope probe calibration
prob lots of step by step quides
dunno, never cared so much to do mine
at those speeds im usually just trying to catch a data signal, so attenuation doesnt really matter a ton
and by those speeds, i mean 1/5 of my scopes bandwidth

Posted by renesis at 05:29 | permalink | 0 comments


im pretty sure the freq specs are -3dB bandwidth specs
so like, the closer you get to that, the more itll attenuate
it might be missing the clipped on gnd strap
probes are cheap, dont worry
can get 200MHz chinese ones from ebay for prob $20 each or something
i got like a 100MHz 8 pack for $80 and gave a bunch away as gifts
heh, cuz homie got a 4 ch scope but like one shit probe before that =D

Posted by renesis at 05:24 | permalink | 0 comments


Chop switches back and forth between the two at a fixed frequency
Alt is prettier, Chop is more accurate in terms of comparing waves in time domain
unless theyre doing some crazy voodoo in Alt mode, but i doubt it
not incredibly until youre doing measurements that high
even then, you just have to be to calculate the rolloff for the input and probe circuit

Posted by renesis at 05:19 | permalink | 0 comments


yeah i cant find one either
yeah
was triggering issue
cuz after the XY thing would have been the 'play with the trigger stuff' suggestion
scope doesnt have anything else really
see the button just to the left of the screen?
yeah one just hiding or a channel off
np, thats a neat scope
Alt and Chop have to do with how the two waves are displayed
Alt traces one, then the other

Posted by renesis at 05:14 | permalink | 0 comments


hmm
set the traces to GND, turn the intensity knob up halfway
damn those model sill have trace illumination
i got unlit black divs
but after doing that hit beam find
should see something
okay so tube works
well, im trying to find the XY mode button or switch
dont see it
you see it? XY button somewhere?
make sure that is off

Posted by renesis at 05:09 | permalink | 0 comments


yeah, prob two of them one for each channel
make sure the channel selector switch is set to both
have you adjusted the intensity?
what kind of scope is it?
which on is uncal?
er, which one
see theres prob a little knob in the middle of the volts and time selectors?
gently twist (most likely cw) until it clicks
see if the uncal thing turns off
yeah
okay so youre getting V/Time readout on the screen, tho?
so the tube works?

Posted by renesis at 05:04 | permalink | 0 comments


what he said some pretty cool shit
it was just generally more wicked and realist than lennons quotes
switch the traces to ground
play with the vertical positioning
see if you get lines, it might just be out of your FOV
its an analog or digital interface?
prob switches under the channel voltage adjustors
AC/DC/GND switch
it might not be triggering, but you dont care about that yet

Posted by renesis at 04:59 | permalink | 0 comments


Lennin?
Lennon?

Posted by renesis at 04:50 | permalink | 0 comments


Top | Add to Technorati Favorites


© 2007 lordpil.   XHTML 1.0! CSS! Site design by GNAA  Blog Engine by pbx | MULTI2 | ian hanschen | lolwat